Antoni Bernad: “The most important thing for a perfect photo is to have the appropriate lighting”

Pioneer, self-taught, perfectionist... These are some of the professional traits of Antoni Bernad (Barcelona, 1944), a fashion photographer and portraitist, among others, of personalities such as Salvador Dalí, Joan Brossa, Teresa Gimpera, Mercè Rodoreda, Bigas Luna, Josep Guinovart, Antoni Tàpies, Artur Mas, or Pasqual Maragall, shunning frivolity and treating artists, politicians, intellectuals, and models with equal respect.

Her first fashion session was for Telva magazine in 1966. Since then, more than 50 years in the profession and works published all over the world have earned her international recognition, both from the industry and the subjects photographed. Until August 26, Palau Robert is dedicating a retrospective exhibition to her, featuring a collection of photographs without chronological order, which highlights, through hundreds of images, the perfectionist hallmark that characterizes the author.

A charisma that is also perceived when seeing him move to the other side of the lens for this interview, where we discover not only a creative individual but also a natural communicator who has managed to win over artists with smiles, praise, and by convincing them that the work always turned out great.

Antoni, what led you to become interested in the world of photography?

My interest began through magazines. I was a graphic designer and worked in advertising companies. Moreover, I was lucky enough to have very good magazines come into my home, and I was fascinated by their rigor, seriousness, and good taste. I thought to myself, 'How I would love to do that.' Since many photographers worked at the advertising agencies, I also learned from them. I would always ask them questions, and on weekends with my friends and sisters, I would practice and try to take the photos I saw in the good magazines. I struggled a lot because I didn't have the chance to go to a school, as the opportunities were in Switzerland or England. I had to settle for experimenting and sweating a lot because I didn't know how to develop film, or at what temperature things were supposed to be done. Sometimes it turned out very well and sometimes very poorly. Then, I won the first prize in a fashion film contest and earned a lot of money with which I was able to go to Paris. My dream and goal were to learn there with some photographer. At that time, the use of flash became fashionable, and I would set up several lights and diffusers that created the same sensation, even though I had never even seen one of those umbrellas before.

I have an interesting anecdote. There were photographers who were also artists, which made it a different thing, and they proposed to me to set up a photography service. They said to me, 'We take the photos and you sign them.' I was horrified. I was shocked because they were the art director of a magazine and another Egyptian photographer. I said no, but then I thought I should have accepted to see how they worked. It was something very perverse.

How could a photographer make a living at that time without experience and at such a young age?

The truth is I had a bit of luck. I was knocking on many doors, but I was still very hungry, because I couldn't spend much either. Until in 1967, a businessman from Barcelona called me and offered me to create an advertising campaign.

How many photos do you estimate you have taken in your entire life?

Ugh, it's impossible to calculate, especially since they are digital nowadays.

Portrait of Manolo Blahnik @Antoni Bernad

How many celebrities did he portray throughout his career?

To a few. My favorite was Manolo Blahnik, because he enjoys it when you take photos of him. And when a person is committed and there is an affinity, there is a communion and it's very pleasant. And among women, my favorite is Laura Ponte, but without detracting from the others. What happened was that she gave me the opportunity to represent all my dreams, my longings, and my preferences. I was searching for my ideal of a woman. So, with her, I created a multitude of characters: singers, opera, painters, actresses, etc.

Do you think that one can get to know a person through a portrait?

Yes. For instance, shyness is known in politicians that I have photographed.

Portraits of Artur Mas, David Hockney, a firefighter and Paloma Picasso by Antoni Bernad

Which personality was the hardest to portray?

There are several. Above all, it's hard to photograph people when they are sick, it's very difficult because they are somewhat frightened. And that's something people don't understand, that a model is just as fragile as an older person due to physical flaws.

Have you ever received any complaints from someone you photographed about how they were captured?

Yes. Quite a few. Many times. Especially from intellectuals. For example, in the year 1975 when the dictator Franco died, I began to portray people who had been in exile. So, the older people had a very different concept of photography than mine, and that aesthetic really bothered them. They probably didn't understand or thought it was a disaster and asked me to redo it. The younger ones would tell me: 'this is the ugliest photo that has ever been taken of me in my life.'

What has been your favorite location? Did you prefer indoors or outdoors?

Indoors you can control the light more easily. Outdoors, the truth is that sometimes you wish a giant would shade you a bit. But the most important thing is that if you are taking pictures of a person and the light is not good, do not shoot because the most important thing is to have proper lighting for the photo to be a 10.

Portrait of Laura Ponce @Antoni Bernad

In its beginnings, I saw a gray Spain, how do you see it now?

Let's say it has improved. It would be ridiculous to say it hasn't. The thing is that there are habits that are very hard to eradicate, there are flaws that have not evolved for the better.

What did the shift from analog to digital mean to you?

A very bad change. It made me very nervous that everyone wanted to see how the photo turned out right away. For me, this isn't about getting it right on the first or second try, it's complex work. The worst were those who gave their opinions and said, “you've got it now”.

Where do you think the color and light that you noticed in foreign magazines at the time come from now?

I believe there is a country that has always been a leader in all this, and that is England. Everything English just blows me away!

Do you think that photography is in good health in Barcelona's culture?

I sincerely believe so. There are very good photographers!